Zucchini is the blessing and bane of a garden.

In high season, my friend “gifts” boxes of her prodigious crop on her neighbors’ front steps and in the back seat of unlocked cars. What to do with all this bounty?

On its own, zucchini is a relatively humble ingredient that pales next to its summer peers — those snappy cherry tomatoes, golden sweet corn, velvety eggplant. But what zucchini lacks in pizazz, it can make up for in its flexibility and adaptability. It adds moisture and flavor to muffins and tea breads, and is wonderful stir-fried and sautéed. Because of its high water content, zucchini can get soggy if it’s undercooked; it is truly best when roasted just long enough to extract all the juices, then turning golden, caramelized and crisp in the oven’s dry heat.

Zucchini is a summer squash, a category that includes pattypan, scallop, crookneck and straightneck squash. All have a mild flavor and can be used interchangeably. They’re also low calorie and rich in vitamins C and B6, fiber and antioxidants. You want summer squashes when they’re young and small, not the size of a baseball bat. Oversized zucchini and summer squash are woody and tasteless.

Roasting summer squash is the best way to showcase its light, mild herbal flavors, as it develops a firm crust on the outside and turns creamy within. The only trick is to slice them into uniform thickness (about ½ inch) so they roast evenly.

Oven-roasted zucchini and squash are great with pasta, in a casserole topped with cheese or scattered on pizza. Served with a marinara sauce or ranch dressing for dipping, it makes a wonderful appetizer.

You may feel overwhelmed with this bounty, but don’t wish it (or summer) away.

Oven-Roasted Zucchini, Summer Squash and Cherry Tomato Pasta

Serves 4 to 6.

In this recipe, the zucchini, squash and cherry tomatoes are blasted in a hot oven to become blistered and dense before being tossed with pasta, cheese and herbs. Summer’s bounty at its peak! From Beth Dooley.

1½ lb. zucchini and summer squash, trimmed and cut into ½-in. discs

1½ lb. cherry tomatoes

Extra-virgin olive oil

Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

12 oz. fusilli pasta, or any preferred shape

¼ c. shredded Parmesan cheese

Juice of ½ fresh lemon

2 tbsp. chopped basil, plus leaves for garnish

Directions

Line a rimmed sheet pan with parchment and preheat it in the oven to 400 degrees.

Toss the zucchini, summer squash and tomatoes with enough oil to generously coat. Spread out on the preheated roasting pan and season with salt and pepper. Roast until the tomatoes are blistered and split and the zucchini and squash are golden and crisped, about 20 minutes, occasionally turning and shaking the pan.

Meanwhile, cook the pasta in rapidly boiling salted water until just tender, about 10 to 12 minutes. Remove about ½ cup of the cooking water and set aside, then drain the pasta in a colander. Transfer the pasta to a large bowl.

Toss the roasted vegetables in with the pasta, adding a ¼ cup of the reserved pasta water along with the cheese. Taste, and if the pasta seems too dry add a little more pasta water. Toss in the lemon juice and season with salt and pepper, adding more olive oil as needed. Toss in the basil and serve garnished with fresh basil leaves and lemon wedges on the side.

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Beth Dooley is the author of “The Perennial Kitchen.” Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.

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