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Commentary: What 'The Bear' has done for Chicago restaurants

Donnie Madia, Chicago Tribune on

Published in Entertainment News

CHICAGO — There are cities known for their restaurants, and then there’s Chicago. Our story is one that’s told through our city’s love of great hospitality; the corner taverns tucked on side streets, the small family-owned bakeries that open before dawn and the mom-and-pop taquerias that sustain their respective communities. Our restaurants tell the stories of those who came here with a dream and whose families continue to gather around the same tables, generation after generation. There’s deep history here when it comes to food, and in my humble opinion, no one does it quite like Chicago does.

That’s why even being a small part of “The Bear,” which premiered its fifth and final season last month, was such an honor. Through our restaurant and butcher shop, Publican Quality Meats, we provided products from Slagel Family Farm. We helped production with our knowledge and expertise in butchery and service.

But what I love most about the show isn’t just the beautiful shots of food or the storyline; it’s the depiction of the industry that I’ve dedicated my life and career to. It portrays the heart and soul of hospitality, and by that, I mean the pressure, the pride and the relentless pursuit of what it means to welcome people through our doors to take care of them. When I watch “The Bear,” I see the people who are the backbone of this industry: It’s the cooks, servers, bartenders, managers, dishwashers, hosts, bakers and chefs, who are represented with honesty and integrity.

You can feel it when you drive by Kasama, and you see the long line of folks waiting patiently outside for Genie Kwon’s pastries, or when you pass Mr. Beef downtown, and the crowds stretch down the block with out-of-town guests waiting to get in on a little piece of the action. Even at our own restaurant, avec, we love to hear it when a guest orders the short rib and hummus because they saw the dish featured in Season 2 of “The Bear.” Instances such as these illustrate how impactful the economic lift has been for Chicago’s restaurant industry. And it’s not just because the show is entertaining; it’s because “The Bear” has gotten people out the door and into the city, searching for the same restaurants they saw on screen that charmed them.

But the timing of the show also mattered. As independent restaurants rebuilt from the ground up after the pandemic, operators were still absorbing skyrocketing costs and staff shortages. The show reminded people that restaurants are more than just places you go out to eat. They’re gathering spots for the community. They’re employers. They’re places to celebrate some of the most memorable moments in life.

And it was this renewed interest that helped us continue to fill our dining rooms and bring an entirely new sector of tourism through the front door. But what you may not see is how far that impact is felt. It stretches past our four walls and into hotels, wineries and small family farms. The show has given people a real perspective on the extraordinary number of people behind the scenes whom it takes to get a dish to your table and to make it look effortless. It’s a reminder that hospitality, at its core, is ultimately about caring for others.

What “The Bear” has created is truly a love letter to hospitality and, even more so, to Chicago itself. Our culinary scene is alive with thousands of independent restaurants that span all 77 neighborhoods, each with its own personality and story. These are the places where the owner knows you as soon as you walk through the door and always has your favorite table waiting. These restaurants are the heartbeat of our city.

One of the things that most impressed me about production on “The Bear” was the care and attention paid to the folks behind the scenes. Filmmaking, it turns out, is not so different. Several years ago, when Ron Howard was in Chicago filming “The Dilemma,” he came to Blackbird on several occasions. We got to talking about how similar our industries are. Actors are like servers, he said, and directors are the chefs. Both a meal at a restaurant and a scene in a movie come down to collaboration, perfect timing and trust. Witnessing more than 150 crew members working together in sync with that same type of precision, I couldn’t help but think that it felt just like a busy Saturday night service.

 

I’m grateful to creator Christopher Storer and the producers, writers, cast and crew members who brought this story to life. Location managers Gilbert Morales and Maria Roxas are true MVPs, and none of this would exist without Joseph Zucchero, the original owner of Mr. Beef, who helped inspire it all. They inherently know that if you want to properly tell the story of Chicago, you have to go deeper to find the people who actually make it what it is.

I’m proud that our little corner of this industry could be a part of this story. The food may be what brings people to Chicago, but it’s the people who make them come back.

I extend my thanks not only to everyone who made this show but also Chicago. You sure look great on TV!

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(Donnie Madia is partner and restaurateur at 12-time James Beard Award-winning One Off Hospitality Group, which includes the restaurants The Publican, avec, Big Star, Publican Quality Bread and more.)

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©2026 Chicago Tribune. Visit at chicagotribune.com. Distributed by Tribune Content Agency, LLC.

 

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